Pasta Martelli 意式傳統手工意粉典範

Pasta Martelli 是來自意大利托斯卡納的 Martelli 家族意粉品牌,始於1926年。品牌90多年來只出產的四款意粉,分別有傳統意粉(Spaghettini)、通心粉(Maccheroni)、長通粉(Penne)及螺旋粉(Fusilli)。款式雖少,創辦人 Dino 跟 Mario 兩兄弟卻堅持重質不重量,並展示出意大利出色工藝。意粉(Spaghettini)形狀呈英文字母U字,是風乾時被掛起而逐成的,有別於市面買到的直條意粉,堅韌且不易折斷。短意粉中,螺旋粉(Fusilli)最有趣, Martelli 家族參照古法食譜重新製作,螺旋粉的七轉扭紋花,是仿比薩斜塔的七個轉有關。通心粉跟長通粉分別用不同銅模壓出,通心粉形狀微彎坑紋深;長通粉是按照那不勒斯的傳統風味製作,表面平滑沒紋。

Pasta Martelli 選用當地優質食材製作意粉,工序目前由8位家人手工處理,強調慢工出細貨,而現時的黃色包裝,也是當地傳統包裝。四款意粉煮法簡單,可按喜好加醬汁烹煮。每款意粉表面有微細小孔,有助醬汁留在意粉表面。事實上,意粉本身已滿有麵粉香,毋須添加太多額外調味,只加橄欖油、香草拌食也很味美。

Pasta Martelli

In the old Via San Martino, at the end of the 1800s, there was a small pasta factory owned by the Catelani couple. Many people of Lari worked there, including two young fatherless boys, Guido and Gastone Martelli. After years of sacrifice, the reward: close to old age and without heirs, the Catelanis left the business to their most loyal employees. In 1926, the two brothers became the owners of the pasta factory in which they grew up. With the help of Beppina and Dina, their two tireless wives, they carried on the business, going through the extremely difficult Second World War period, marked by misery and ration cards. Thank goodness that tenacity was not lacking!

The family business continued smoothly until 1967, when a new law required the exclusive use of durum wheat and the obligation to package and seal the pasta in individual packages. A true revolution for manufacturers used to selling loose pasta to consumers. What’s more, the post-war boom was followed by a long period of economic crisis. Industrialize or fold up: there seemed to be no other choice. Many Italian pasta factories closed their doors, but not the Martellis. With great courage, the brothers Mario and Dino with their wives Valeria and Lucia faced the new market without giving up their artisan identity. How? By sacrificing quantity, to focus on quality.

Giorgio Onesti was the first to grasp that handicraft activities and small shops were a potential market niche for people who are not satisfied with the unbridled industrial productions but appreciate and seek out the value that the best raw materials, time and passion add to what is brought to the table. Paolo Massobrio, renowned journalist and food critic, remembers him as “a visionary and an innovator; the originator, in Italy, of a real revolution. He is the person who put together small farmers and artisans with small grocery stores, effectively creating the boutique of taste”.

Thanks to the valuable advice of Giorgio Onesti, a true friend of our family, our pasta factory sprung over the regional boundaries and became known throughout Italy. The famous yellow package was born: rustic like the ancient straw paper, golden like the wheat ripened under the Tuscan sun. The choice made years ago repaid the sacrifices and revealed itself in all its strength: our admirers grew from year to year.

Today, three generations of Martellis celebrate together ninety years of business, confident in the future and honoured to give lustre to the name of Lari. A feeling reciprocated by the community and acknowledged on the occasion of this milestone with an important decision: to rename the home of the pasta factory from Via San Martino to Via dei Pastifici, or Via of the Pasta Factories. An award that celebrates the last, proud representatives of a noble and ancient art.

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